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A traditional cake
during the year-end
holiday season
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This cake appeared in Milan,
northern Italy, around the 15th century, and the custom of consuming
Panettone
spread
immediately all over the world.
But how was panettone born? There are many legends around
this traditional product. They are almost all love stories, and we
shouldn't be surprised, since Milan,
notwithstanding its aspect, its
work oriented attitude, its traffic, and everything else, it has always
been, and will always be one of the most romantic cities in the world.
Here are some of these legends.
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The first one is a love story: it is the XVth century, the Court of the
Duke Ludovico Maria Sforza.
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Ughetto, the
hawk breeder
of the Duke, loves the studying and the solitude. But he especially
loves the beautiful daughter of the baker, Adalgisa. Their love, as it
often happened back then, was opposed by Ughetto's family. So he could
only meet the beautiful Adalgisa at night, when he could avoid her
family
surveillance. Moreover,
Adalgisa at night
was up too, because she had to
attend to the bread making in her father bakery.
Unfortunately, a series of misfortunes happened to the baker all at once.
He started losing many clients, another bakery opened up nearby, then
the bakery boy fell ill and Adalgisa was forced to do all the heavy
chores.
Then Ughetto had an idea: he offered himself as the baker boy and
thought to improve the bread adding some butter to the
dough:
there was no money to buy the butter?... no problem... The young man
sold a couple of beautiful hawks and bought the butter he needed. It was
an immediate success and it grew even more when Ughetto added some sugar
to his
recipe.
Some glutton found out and the word got around in the neighborhood.
Ughetto, happy to see a smile again on his lover's lips, one night added
some candied citron and eggs to part of the dough, which was ready for
cooking. It was a very special bread and everybody liked it. At
Christmas, the young man had another idea and added some
raisins. It was a huge
success. Naturally at this point Ughetto and Adalgisa's dream came true
and they could get married.
Their secret soon became common knowledge; soon enough in every block
bakers made big shapes and big quantities of the sweet bread with
raisins.
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A very similar story, but without the romantic part, says that the
invention of the sweet bread wasn't the work of messer Ughetto, but of
sister Ughetta that, in order to please the other
nuns, invented a very successful
sweet bread
for Christmas.
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Sister Ughetta lived in a poor
convent with other young nuns: the upcoming Christmas was going to be
sad and miserable. But all of a sudden the situation changed when Suora
Ughetta
came up with this new cake
on which she had
traced with a knife a cross
on the
crust of the cake. When the
cupola-shaped crust was cooked
and golden, the groove left by the knife opened up, creating those bumbs
that are still visible today in the traditional panettoni, still
manufactured today according to old recipes.
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The third legend goes back
again to the times of the most flourishing of Milan, during the reign of
the Visconti and Sforza families.
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Court of the Duke Ludovico,
Christmas Night. That night at the Castle Sforzesco a big party was
given, with music and dance. A luxurious banquet that had to finish with
a dessert. The art of dessert-making was a very special art at
that time: it showed the quality of the kitchen of the
seigniory
and especially of the skills of the head chef of an important family.
For that occasion the chef had prepared a special dessert, but this,
alas, had suddenly burned, it was all pieces of coal.
How to fix it? "Dessert!... Dessert!..." demanded loudly the guests.
What to do?... In the Court kitchen people were terrified; the Duke's
wrath was going to be
terrible: back then, they put you to death for reasons far more
futile
than this. The head chef was scared to death: he was going to get the
worst punishment.
Toni, the little
scullery boy approached the
head chef and with trembling voice said: "With the
leftovers of what you used for
the big dessert, I made my own dessert, I added a few eggs and a little
sugar, a bit of raisins and citron... it's a simple dessert, for me and
some friends of mine that are gathering tonight at my house... If you
want it, there it is...", and he pointed to a big bun, well made, with a
big cupola of brown crust. The chef looked at it with great suspicion,
but from that dough was coming out a very
enticing aroma. And after all,
he didn't have much choice... that is, there was nothing else to send up
to the table of the Duke's guests, who were protesting louder and
louder. He decorated little scullery boy's dessert, put it on a large
golden tray and had it sent to the party hall. A big applause saluted
the entrance of the unusual cake. The
Duchess cut the first slice and
in a few moments the whole cake was devoured. A chorus of praises raised
from everybody at the table; the praises turned soon into enthusiastic
acclamations. The chef's heart quieted down. "Bravo!... Bravo!... What
novelty, what a good dessert!". The Duke himself wanted to pay his
compliments to the chef, who was the only one who couldn't
figure out the reason of all
this great success. Naturally, nobody said anything about what had
happened. The little scullery boy, astonished and scared, was hiding in
a corner. But the truth came out eventually and Toni's bread
- "el pan del Toni" - was on everybody's mouth: everybody was
talking about this new cake and its incredible sweet taste, popular and
aristocratic at the same time. Thus, "El pan del Toni" turned
soon in the panetton
we know today.
Source: Colomba Italy Website
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GLOSSARY |
spread:
extended
(se
extendió)
notwithstanding:
in spite of
(a
pesar de)
hawk breeder:
a person who breeds hawks
(criador de halcones)
surveillance: close observation, control (vigilancia)
was up too:
was also awake
(estaba
despierta también)
chores: tasks, domestic activities (tareas domésticas)
dough: flour mixture (masa, pasta de harina)
recipe:
formula or directions
for making something
(receta)
raisins: dried grapes (pasas de uva)
nun: woman religious (monja)
came up: appeared (apareció, se presentó) |
traced:
delineated
(marcado,
dibujado)
crust:
outer layer
(corteza)
cupola-shape:
in the form of a dome
(con
forma de cúpula)
seigniory:
the
estate and power of a seigneur
(señoría)
wrath: anger (ira, rabia)
futile: unproductive, minor (menor, inútil)
scullery: in charge of
kitchen utensils (cuchillero)
leftovers:
food remains
(sobras
de comida)
enticing:
tempting
(tentador)
duchess:
duke's wife
(duquesa)
figure out: understand (entender, comprender) |
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